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A flash of neon alerts us to the presence of a new establishment in our favoured haunt, Defence Colony. Past the pulsating lights at the doorway, we come to a three-tiered space, ablaze with lamps, chandeliers and the aforementioned neon. Avoiding the roof in this icky weather, we settle for the first floor, first summoning our courage to cross the transparent glass panes that serve as flooring.
The cuisine here caters to the crowds, serving Indian, Continental, Oriental and the fusion section, which has become so ubiquitous to menus around the city. There’s also an obvious predisposition towards mushrooms; the fungi, er… mushrooms all over the menu, in various forms, both as stand-alone dishes and supporting members. For the more bacchanalian among us there’s good news: the liquor list is long and fairly reasonable. A cocktail, and we spotted some interesting ones, starting at Rs 255 a tipple. The music is really good, but out of place. The DJ clearly has skills in electronic and bass heavy music and he should be showcasing them in a club, not at a dining space. One doesn’t know whether to bob one’s head or chew.
We begin with a mushroom dish, as it’s obviously expected of us, to wit, a Taiwanese Chilli Mushroom, and Basa Ball Shots. The mushrooms sprout up first, glazed with hoisin and dotted with sesame seeds. Smoky with chillies and crushed peppers, there’s almost too much going on at the same time, flavour-wise, but it’s all to the good, specially when we sample our next course. Notice we didn’t say finish. That’s because the basa is tremendously underwhelming, comprising large skewered balls of flavourless fish, dotted with tired, nay exhausted, dried mango cubes. The accompanying coconut milk sauce does nothing to ameliorate the situation, leaving our appetite to sink to the bottom of the ocean.
Once we finally manage to catch our server’s attention, we move on to our next course, playing it safe with a Grilled Chicken Leg with Peri Peri and Herb Sauce. The meat is a trifle tough, but comes doused in a creamy sauce redolent with lemon, chillies and garlic; it holds up Anthony Bourdain’s assertion that an ounce of sauce covers a multitude of sins. Still, it’s nothing to write home about.
The dessert selection is largely derivative, seemingly inspired from other restaurants, and we pick the most unusual sounding one. Also because we can’t really tell what it is: Chocolate Walnut Nems with Vanilla Ice Cream. What does appear on our plate is essentially chocolate and hazelnut-stuffed spring rolls, served with ice cream
and chocolate sauce. So at least we end on a sweet note.
Meal for two: Rs 2,000 (including taxes, excluding alcohol)
Address: 10, Defence Colony Main Market, Defence Colony; 33107864
Lima is Chef Atul Kochhar’s latest experiment, the previous one being his restaurant NRI (Not Really Indian), also at BKC. Going to Lima is a unique experience, being one of – if not the only – restaurant in Mumbai that specialises in South American cuisine. While we thought some dishes tasted odd, we admire the novelty, creativity, and thought that went into each of them.
But perhaps a lounge bar, rather than a restaurant, would better describe Lima. It has only 17 items on its food menu but offers many more signature drinks, while the music is a medley of samba, tango and salsa. A green ceiling and bright blue bar gleams with natural light.
The best thing about the food is that it is a cultural experience. One might be surprised to find a dish called the Gochujang Honey Chicken under the Churrasco Grill section, but Chef Atul explains that Korean migration to Latin America after WWII influenced its regional cuisines. The chicken, marinated with ají mirasol chili pepper and then grilled, was succulent, and the gochujang, which is a spicy and pungent paste formed from chilli and soybean, added an unexpected kick.
Also on the Churrasco Grill is the slightly strange-tasting Milk Infused Corn on the Cob. The cilantro sour cream did not go well with the sweetness of the corn. The Chimichuri Chicken Liver also fell flat, but perhaps it’s because we don’t like liver. We did appreciate the taste of the chimichuri, though, which is a sauce from Argentina made with parsley and garlic and used for grilling.
Our next stop was the quesadilla, a dish found on the menu of every self-respecting restaurant with Latin food. At Lima, it came with black beans, corn, bell peppers and manchego cheese. We were a little disappointed by how ordinary it was, but most other dishes were revelations.
Take, for instance, the Indian Sea Bass ceviche. A ceviche, a seafood dish from the coastal regions of Latin America, is typically made from fresh raw fish cured in citrus juices and spiced with ají or chilli peppers. The dish we were served was exquisite – balanced, fresh and flavourful.
The other ceviche was re-imagined for the vegetarian customer and made from five types of mushrooms, most of which are found in Asia and not South America. Interestingly, instead of substituting the sauce found in typical ceviche, the chef decided to use Japanese ponzu sauce. Also citrus-based, it is similar enough to the dressing in ceviche but was more suited to the taste of these mushrooms.
Another enjoyable dish was the Multicolored Quinoa and Mint, drizzled in a deliciously sour-sweet passion fruit dressing. Quinoa, which is originally from the Andes, is usually whitish in colour. The black and red quinoa, while adding little to the taste, makes the dish an art piece — a good example of the thought that went into the presentation of every item.
Lima is a risk; the food would be out of most people’s comfort zones. But perhaps the delicious drinks will ease customers in. Our favourite was the Kumquat and Basil Caipirinha, though the Watermelon Mojito, which is self-explanatory, and the Volcano, made with rum, pineapple juice, and a burnt orange peel, were good too.
The steep prices, relatively small portions, and unfamiliar food might put some people off. Vegetarians should also be wary. But go if you’d like a warm ambience, refreshing drinks, and want to try something new.
Price for two (including drinks): Rs 4,200.
Address: 2, North Avenue, Maker Maxity, BKC; Tel: 30005040